Small classes, large dollops of personal attention, luxe rooms in French-country style, and a gorgeous US$5 million fitness center make this my first choice when it comes to boutique destination spas. Instructors are first-rate, and the fitness center has a splendidly equipped weight room (with leather seats on the machines), light-drenched workout studios, and a full complement of Pilates machines. While the hiking program is limited, the morning classes — cardio kickboxing, circuit training, Pilates, yoga, and more — are kick-ass and will ratchet up your fitness program several notches in a week. And there's no hiding in the back row because the spa takes a maximum of 30 guests. If mornings are tough love, afternoons are tender, given over to spa treatments. Try the Cal-a-Vie Vichy Shower with Body Buffing, an exfoliation followed by a relaxing stint under the shower. The food is complex, highly flavored, and totally delicious. Meals are plated, ensuring that you won't overeat.